Travels in Textiles

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Tuesday 9 February 2010

Experimental, innovative and contemporary block prints


The next day I managed to visit the other Juned and his father Abdul Raheman. Another graduate of KRV, Juned had produced some pieces inspired by Islamic architecture and prayer mats. I tried to learn some of the names of the traditional designs and he showed me all the dyes they use. Juned himself uses all natural dyes, including myrobalen, tamarind powder for a thickener, shells from Mandvi beach where lime is extracted from for use in the mud resist paste, indigo, madder root, dried pmegranate skins, turmeric and others. He introduced me to his brother Faiz Mohammed who also block prints but uses chemical dyes. Chemically dyed ajrakh tends to be for local and cheaper markets such as Gamthiwalas in Ahmedabad and other market sellers in the cities.

I learnt that Juned's uncle is Mussabhai, whom I met on my last visit so asked if he could take me to his house, which he did and I was greeted by a huge group of excitable children, some of whom were his grandchildren, and extended family, and neighbours. So before getting to see any textiles I had to spend about half an hour taking photos, which was fun at first but when asked to take one of each individually and then different combinations I started to get impatient to chat to Mussabhai and his son Auresh.I eventually escaped but was still jumped on and asked to take more every so often while in the cloth haven. Mussabhai is quite an outgoing character and even though he doesn't speak much English, talks as much as he can. While showing me his son Auresh's work, poor Auresh hardly got a word in. Auresh, only 18 years old is another graduate of KRV. While showing me his son Auresh's work, poor Auresh hardly got a word in. Auresh, only 18 years old is another graduate of KRV and Mussabhai had plenty of reason to be hugely proud of his son's work as he had produced some beautiful pieces. I was in awe at every single one and didn't mind taking each ones' photo as Mussabhai eagerly asked me to.
I love this one of the horses. Its so different from any of the other prints I've seen. He had a really good eye for pattern and colour. He used only natural dyes on silk and produced a large collection of dupattas and some saris too. I wanted to buy some but they were saving them for an exhibition. I'd love to exhibit some of them here so said to Auresh to let me know what he's got left after the exhibition, probably none if everyone likes them as much as me!
Sale Mohammed had also produced some beautiful innovative prints for his KRV graduate collection. It consisted of women's garments such as short kurtas, skirts and trousers. HIs collection focussed on placement of blocks. He had used the composition of a traditional block, taken the design away and replaced with his own new design. He used both chemical and natural dyes, and I have to say I prefered the colours the natural dyes had produced as some of the chemical produced prints were more a little garish. He's done well in experimenting though.

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